Thursday, January 31, 2008

TukTuk Lady?

Cambodia - D11
I am in love with two things...snorkling, and snorkling instructors! Though I think the first love is the one meant to last. Today we woke up early and caught a boat ride two hours into the Gulf of Thailand for a day of snorkling around some more secluded reefs. It was awe-inspiring - as soon as I figured out how to breath you couldn't pull my head out of the water! I loved being so close to His incredible creation, feeling completely at home in a world where I so obviously did not belong. I wish had more words to describe it, but I felt like I was living Finding Nemo (save the frightening first scene for M audiences). Sadly, there were no sting ray or shark sightings, but the hope kept the day exciting. We docked for about an hour on an island out in the gulf and it was the first time since I had been in South East Asia where I got to interact with the kids here without having to take out my wallet. They wanted to touch my face, not my money! I walked with 3 of them around the beach for a while, where they challenged me to a barefoot game of coral chicken (which I promptly lost). The boat ride back was an adventure all in itself, I just kept waiting for George Clooney to appear from below deck to help me ride out the waves, but life just disappoints sometimes...

Cambodia - D12
We were not ready to leave our beach haven yet, so the morning was spent at the beach. ***Admittedly hiding under the umbrellas because our poor skin couldn't take much more*** We took a few last dips in the crystal sea, before heading for the comfort and air conditioning of a little black market theatre in town. They were showing their biweekly run of "The Killing Feilds", a movie from the 80's about an American and Cambodian journalist during the Khmer Rouge takeover. Though less distrurbing than some of the books I had read on the subject, and a little too focused on the poor guilty American during the mass genocide of the Cambodian people...it was eye-opening none the less. Its amazing how little we are taught about the Cambodian plight, but I will get to more of that later. Our last night on the beach was spent partaking in coconut curry *my current addiction* and the realization of my dream! Drinking coconut milk, from the coconut, with my toes in the sand. Euphoria.

Cambodia - D13
I woke up to the loudest rooster known to man (or a loud one period to this city girl) but I welcomed him because I had a sunrise to kiss. So I crawled out of bed and hit what I expected to be a disserted beach. I had forgotten that the rest of the world is not lazy and often up with the sun, so I was in good Cambodian company. There were even a few Americans still high on the previous night's "happiness" who were walking off the jitters. One such charming Aussie pair even stopped to saronade me with this lovely tune: "Writing on the beach, oh this girl is writing on the beach...bet she's quite a peach...hope her boyfriends not a leech so he won't care about my speech of LLLLLLLOOOOOOOVVVVVVVVEEEEEEEEEEE" (Think its destined to be a hit myself). The rest of the day was spent on the bus to Seim Reap, in which I devoured a pack of oreos and 2 Paulo Coehlo books. Thanks to Sarah's abundant literary collection I have found a new favorite, luckily he is available all over these towns, cause the Khmer love their Coehlo.

Cambodia - D14
Seim Reap did not give us much time to adjust, because we were up early to beat the crowds to Angkor Wat. Our trusty tuktuk driver Poah was on strict orders to take us anywhere we wanted to go, and we quickly dubbed the little cutie Bobble Head Poah.
The Temples of Angkor is the largest religious ground in the world, the town of Seim Reap is actually inside of the official boundries itself. Sadly we did not have the time to see everything, so we explored the select few that were not to be missed. Angkor Wat, Ankor Thom, Pat Thom and Pat Keo. Angkor Wat was the grandest and most impressive, but as we moved down the list we found the relics less crowded and more interesting. Pat Thom was like a scene straight out the the Jungle Book with its winding trees and beautiful delapitation. The crazy girls singing "I'm the King of the Jungle"? Need you ask? Sadly, we were not rewarded with the promised monkey sighting, so the wait continues.
That night we found the most incredible restuarant where we treated ourselves to $5 meals (a splurge, trust me). Don't let the name deceive you...Dead Fish Towers was something straight out of Seattle's cooler districts. It looked like a lodge, with pulleys and hidden staircases taking you to various eating levels. Elton John tracks interrupted by the occasional Khmer dance, and about 15 crocodiles under the floorboards. This was the day I decided to marry a gourment chef and open an exact replica of this place in Seattle - as would be the only true road to happiness.

Cambodia - D15
You are probably as sick of reading about days spent on a bus as I am of spending them. Synopsis: Bus from Seim Reap to Phenm Penh - Another Paulo Coehlo book - Lao visa application in - exhausted foreigners out

Cambodia - D16
Which brings us to today...sunburned, mosquito bitten, growing poorer by the second, and extremely happy still! I am feeling so overwhelmed by my blessed life, and challeged every day to be worthy of it. Grace is too sweet a gift. We spent the day at the various cultural sights around Phenm Penh related to the Khmer Rouge genocide. For those of you whose history classes neglected this subject as much as mine, here is a breif history:
Throughout the early 70's the Khmer Rouge, a communist militia in Cambodia, was at war with the current government, attempting to overthrow what they viewed to be an oppressive regime. In 1975 they succeeded, and marched into Phenm Penh proclaiming their victory. The next four years was one of the worst Communist takeovers in history, where the Khmer Rouge systematically waged genocide on the educated, wealthy, elderly, or artistic. Anyone who was at one point in their history tied to the defeated government, or could have possibly had any positive feelings about said government, or who was less than thrilled about their new system was killed without a second thought - man, woman, child. The entire population of Phenm Penh was forced out of the city, and the Khmer people spent the next four years starving to death in forced labor camps or dieing at the hands of teenage killing machines in various prisons. In 1979 the Veitnamese overtook the Khmer Rouge and the genocide was finally ended. It estimated that over 3 million people died in that four year period. Its said that this Cambodian genocide is worse than the Holocaust, because never before had so many people been killed at the hands of their own countrymen.
So this morning we visited Tuol Sleng, a high school turned prison in 1975 to house the "enemies" of the Khmer Rouge. In a word, it was devestating. We walked in and out of prison cells stained with blood, containing photos of the victims as they were found in the rooms after the Khmer Rouge had deserted. We walked through rooms absolutely covered with the mug shots of the "dangerous prisoners" - old men battered and brusied, women holding their infants, children. There were torture devices and shackles still in the makeshift cells. Over 20,000 prisoners went through Tuol Sleng in those 4 years, 7 survived. We had the privilege of seeing one of those survivors because they were shooting a documentary about him at that time. The cameraman was showing us the exact cell he stayed in - amazing.
Then we made our way to The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, not just a name of a movie. The killing feilds is the name given to the places where they would take prisoners to die, and be buried in mass graves with thousands who had shared their fate. There are killing feilds all over Cambodia, but this particular one was the dumping ground from Tuol Sleng. Mass graves have since been unearthed there, and we could walk the ground, still finding clothes and bones sticking out of the earth around us. It was horrific, but at the same time so incredibly poigant. Here we were walking in the same place where men and women begged for their lives, and the ground was littered with butterflies. We could hear children laughing and playing at a near by school. There is life here in Cambodia, and I think today I fell in love with this country. When I was walking the halls of Tuol Sleng, I was so struck by the faces of the thousands of prisoners. They did not look defeated nor afraid, most of them stared boldly into the camera, a few even smiled. They stared death in the face and had the most incredibly resiliant spirits. 30 years later, the children of thise massacre live a life of poverty, still under a communist government. But they have forgiven and are so full of love. I feel inspired and challenged. I'm breathless.

Thoughts on Cambodia
*Coconut Curry - addicted, can't get enough, must learn this magical recipe and bring this joy to others
*Cambodia is a land of propositions. Since entering this country, I have been constantly bombared with propositions: tuktuks, motos, pineapple, mango, coconuts, water, water, ice water, opium, marijuana, 4 hand massages, island boys, island girls...the list goes on and on. They are offering you every imaginable deadly sin or comfort, and its amazing to me how the lost and hurting have found an outlet for their pain here.
*The symphony of the city is the following: TukTuk Lady? TukTuk Lady? Lady! TukTuk! I wish I could write the sound of their voices, but trust me...its hilarious
*I already talked about the history of this war-ravaged place, but let me revisit it. Its shameful how little I knew of this land and its people. What they have survived is nothing short of amazing, and reading books like "First They Killed My Father" or "Pol Pot's Regime" only begin to brushthe surface of the reality that plagued these people. Their capacity to survive and to forgive are beyond what I can comprehend. They still suffer so much with painful memories and lasting fear of land mines or government persecution, I hope you will all keep these people in your PRYRS.
*My two personalities are at home here. The lover of all things western comforts has been rewarded with espressos, veggie burgers, book stores, tour guides and air conditioning. I have followed the older European tourists around various "required tourist activities" and have been perfectly happy inside my travelers box. My darker, more adventurous side is leaping out though, and Cambodia is offering the perfect outlet! Tomorrow we will leave the city *finally* to make our way north to less touristy venues with promises of elephant treks and secluded waterfall dives. I am ready to be free of these western restraints...bring on real life!

Jeremy Update
He is stable, and catagorized as in serious condition, but expected to make a full recovery. He was transfered to a hospital in Bangkok, and his family is there now. Hopefully we will get to see him when we get to Thailand! Thanks for lifting him up, please continue to do so!

Friday, January 25, 2008

There's Nothing Here Now That I'll Miss, Why Send Me Now A Night Like This?

When I last wrote you, I was in Ho Chi Minh City - attempting to prepare myself mentally for the craziness that appeared to be Saigon. Sorry it took me so long to write again, but you will tell I have been busy. Hopefully my mother will forgive me my forgetfulness...

Veitnam - D5
After a stay in a fairly seedy hotel, I woke up early to check out of there and hit the city! I spent the morning having breakfast with an American couple who were biking through the Mekong Delta region. They were SO refreshing after the constant throng of Europeans, just so much more down to earth. And they were even Northwesterners! So on that high, I moved onto the next which was morning mass at the Notre Dame Cathedral. AMAZING. Filled with faithful from all walks, it was incredible to be in a place where He was openly exalted. My first in months and I had no idea how I missed it. The whole morning was so beautiful, I couldn't leave! I stayed in the pew until they kicked me out (which I still think there should be some kind of rule against, what happened to sanctuary?)
The afternoon was an extreme test of my mind and stomach. I visit the Reunification Palace and the War Remnent Museum - both tributes to Vietnam and the American Invasion(as they called it). It was really eye opening for me to see the war from the "other side". Granted, the propoganda was blatant and should have been taken as so, but the facts of that time remain the same. And the lasting effects, Agent Orange and others, are visible in the people here. It is hard to put into words how I felt, being somewhere where my people are looked at as enemies, and seeing how the rest of the world viewed us at that time. It really made me question how we will remember the Iraq War, and the last few years of American history. What will we say, and what will they say? It also amazed me, how warm the Veitnamese were too me, and how they have forgiven what they lived through. I am still wondering how to put into words that experience.
We spent the night laughing away with some soccer players we met in Backpackers Alley - a "confident" Kenyan and a delightful Jamacian/American who tested our football knowledge, as well as our gender differences ;o)

Veitnam - D6
The Day of Frenchie. Graham had heard about some work that was happening in the city, so through various connections we were picked up from our hotel Monday morning by Frenchie, the code name for the French Laotian who is leading the work there. After a thrilling motop ride through the city (you haven't lived til you have straddled a Saigonese stranger in a skirt) we arrived in the outskirts of town to his home, where Jessica & I got to coo over his baby, and we all heard about the movement in Vietnam. Frenchie spoiled us with stories and lunch, he was hilarious if you want the truth. Then we spent the afternoon in the hotel they rent out to teach the country kids English and then where they come together to worship. I can't share much with you - just that they have a huge ministry with the poor children of the city, many who have come to know the Father and have gone on to a better life because of it. They have to work under even more "delicate" conditions than many others and have thrived - please keep them in your thoughts.

Vietnam - D7
Jessica & I booked a 2 day-overnight boat tour through the Mekong Delta as our route to Cambodia. It ended up being an excellent decision, despite the significant dent in our pocket books. Our "family" was led by Thai, the fearless Veitnamese Island Boy, and we spent the morning touring various island communities in the Mekong Delta. We took little boats powered by the intense muscles of a young woman who only hit Jessica in the head twice with her oars! And yes...there were triangle hats...I would say the highlight was coconut island, where we could sample various coconutty goodies to our hearts content. The horrific occurance that met us on this trip though, was a shot of Snake Liquor. Lets just say, we drank from a jar consisting of 50% proof alcohol, dead cobras, and a fully-feathered crow. Not my, or my stomachs, finest moment...but when in Veitnam!
The night was spent on this amazing boat with the most incredible beds - I have never slept so well. But it was great - we saw the sunset, had political conversatoins with Kenyo & Monique (the people who brought the Dutch back to me!) and learned to play Yatzhee German style (Hershoc!)

Veitnam/Cambodia - D8
Father Thai soon lost his magical luster when he woke us up at 5:00 am to see the sunrise in Chau Doc harbor...but it was a beautiful sight. The rest of the day was uneventful, Thai said "bye bye you" and we went from boat to boat - border to border - and suddenly we were in Cambodia! The naked island children were a sure indication. We glided up the river, soaking up the sun and the new scenery. But all good things must come to an end. The rest of the day was a virtual disater! Phenm Penh Synopsis: cramped/smelly bus ride - overpriced/mosquito infested guesthouse - accosting by cracked-out old Dutch poet. I will spare you and my memory the details. Needless to say we were on the first bus to the beach and Mama T in the morning!

Cambodia - D9
Hitching the early bus out of town, Jessica and I were headed to Sihanoukville, Cambodia's only beach resort. After missing the white sands and crystal ocean in Veitnam, it was time for us to be beach bunnies for a few days. Sarah (our fourth) was already here, so she convinced us to add it to the iteneray. We definitely made the right decision! We are on the most beautiful beach! This town is fairly laid back, not much night life, just people relaxing their way through the days. (Granted, their relaxation is highly due to the "happy" cuisine most are partaking in, but there are a few who are coherant for the stay) We have Bungalows not 3 minutes off the sand and as soon as we could drop our bags, we were there! Pleasant surprise - we had been on the beach for maybe a minute when I ran into Dan, a fellow Shiyan teacher who found his intended visit to Veitnam lacking and made his way to the beach. Small worlds get smaller! So it was wonderful catching up this him, it made us both think about the highs and lows of Shiyan life (Highs - the Chinese, Lows - no beach access). That night the four of us spent the night on the beach in papsan chairs, happily taking in the night breeze, crazy westerners making fools of themselves, and the cheap cuisine. Loving it...

Cambodia - D10
Which brings us to today. Not much can be said - morning, noon, and night on the beach. Lobster-like sunburns, wave surfing, beach volleyball, banana boat rides, tongue twisting pineapples, ice coffee and the constant presence of children trying to sell everything from bracelets to leg shavings. They keep walking up to me and telling me I have hairy legs! Not the quickest way to earn business kid! We keep telling them we don't buy from kids who don't go to school, hoping the lack of business will encourage their parents to pull them from the sand and give them more of an opportunity at something greater. I have been fairly put off by their sales methodologies as well, guilt and constant annoyance do not work well with westerners!
Tonight holds various beach parties, promising everything from glow-in-the dark disco to free t-shirts. The night life here is pretty dead, but we are interested to see what a Friday night can hold. We are really just itching to hit the dance floor! But early to bed for us, cause we have a 7:00 am date with some snorkeling gear!

Will try to keep writing, just know that I am safe (always careful!) and loving every minute for this whirlwind experience! Please keep a boy named Jeremy in your thoughts - he is a fellow teacher who was trampled by an elephant in Southern China over the festival. He is in critical condition, and keeps moving in and out of danger. May the great Father show is wonders!

Saturday, January 19, 2008

A Song Played On A Solo Saxophone

If you have been watching the news, the reason you have not seen 3 foreigners protesting at the Vietnam border is that China finally released its vice grip on us and we crossed the border on Wednesday afternoon - so after almost a week of traveling, I finally entered Veitnam! What the next few days held could only be described as a whirlwind and I apologize now for the probable length of this choronicle. Please remember, I blog not only for your reading enjoyment, but for the sake of my own poor and failing memory!

Vietnam - D1
First Stop - Pho! Not 30 minutes over the border we stopped at a roadside cafe for our first authentic Vietnamese Pho! Jessica and I were estatic, and Graham was quickly won to our side. Pho is basically top ramen, but with overwhelming amounts of cilantro and basil - delectable. With happy bellys, we climbed aboard again. We arrived in Hanoi midafternoon, a city known for its European-like quarters and its (supposedly) wide streets. We quickly decided that whatever we were looking for, Hanoi was not it, so we decided to leave that evening for Hue. With a few hours to kill, we washed the grime of China off our bodies and hit the streets. It didn't take us long to discover that if we stayed in Hanoi we would either be run over or go broke! So after a nutritious dinner of Mint gelato and Vietnamese donuts (I know...) we caught the overnight sleeper bus to Hue. I am linking these sleeper buses to what we will probably be traveling to the moon in some day, little pods for your feet, lined up in pretty little rows like sardines. Close quarters, but an excellent place to meet new friends with delicious accents. The ride was wretchedly bumpy at best - but nothing 2 Nyquill couldn't cure!

Vietnam - D2
At the first pit stop of the morning, Jessica & Graham were shanghaied into a tour of some underground tunnels that required them to stay a day behind. They ended up being worth it to them, but I had been in the cold and wet for too long and was headed SOUTH to warmth! So we parted ways, and I headed to Hue to catch yet ANOTHER lovely bus (notice a pattern develops quickly). I had a few hours to kill in Hue, which I spent exploring Veitnam's equivelent of Beijing's Forbidden City (which even shares the name). I rode a tut-tut, nearly fell in a lake, and learned that according to ancient customs, goats have the ability to predict the fertility of a woman! Hue still didn't have the special something I was looking for, so I put that city behind me to take another 3 hour trip to Hoi An. I arrived late and without much of a glance at the city, hit the hotel. Only the joy of finding BBC News on the television (my first english news program in 5 months!) kept my eyes open for long.
***Note: It may seem that I am flying through Vietnam - truthfully I am! Am supposed to meet Sarah in Phenom Phen on Monday morning, which because of border troubles left less than a week in the country. Was sad about this at first, but am finding that the other countries are probably more my style of vacation. I am less about European shopping and more about elephant riding!

Vietnam - D3
I woke up early to take a tour out to My Son. My Son is the Vietnamese Angkor Wat, a religious site that was the center of their worship culture. Sadly, the American B52's obliterated it so all that is left is moss covered relics. It was raining, and we treked out into the jungle along carefully laid pathes (so as not to meet the same fate as the dogs that followed us around - they were missing limbs from wandering into mines). Say what you will about Americans, but no one can say were are not thorough! There was not much to see, but our guide had lots of interesting information for us. Like the fact that because Galileo was a few thousand years too late in recognizing the earth was round, all religious monoments that represent women were flat squares (women = mother = earth = flat = square). Our guide felt the need to share with us that of all the women he had seen, and he had seen a lot (!), he had never seen a woman who had a square...and if only the original architects had consulted him, he would have set them straight. Yeah, he loved to share!
I headed back to town to meet Jessica & Graham, who had traveled the Hoi An that morning and we bicycled out to nearby Cham Nam Island. It was a little terrifying manuevering those things through town, and I was significantly out of practice, but as soon as we hit the island it was wonderful! It was raining, and we sang rain-themed showtunes like complete loons - it was the first time I felt like I was really on vacation. We hit a local restuarant, far away from the tourist district and ate mixed mess (Vietnamese specialty of various vegetable).
Biking back through town, we entered into the old quarter, which is basically just street after street of shops, most of which are tailors (Hoi An is known for its clothing, they make it to your size exactly in one day guarantee - sweatshop central). Jessica & I mused about the excessive spending habits of these Europeans, spending thousands of dollars on tailor made clothing items. We stopped at one store to admire a dress and we were goners. Turns out those Europeons knew what they were doing - designer dresses made to your size for $20 American dollars! I am ashamed to say I could not help myself...I splurged on 2 dresses, and Jessica & Graham had some clothes made as well. We plan on celebrating our last days on the beach in Thailand in them with Mama T.
I ended up being a big fan of Hoi An after all - I like the french feel of the small city streets and it was just crowded enough to hold interesting company. Sadly, I didn't have enough on the agenda to keep me for another day so after some banana shakes at Retreats, I bordered yet another overnight bus - headed straight for Saigon (24 hours!)

Veitnam - D4
Woke up to a lady telling me to get off the bus. We had arrived in Nha Trang, a stopping point for a number of people who were headed for beaches, but everyone who was carrying through to Saigon had to check in at the counter. No problem, so I cleared the sleepies and got off the bus...
Enter another episode of: This Could Only Happen to Jessica
So the night before the entire bus was in a bit of emergency. We had run out of gas, and the bathroom on the bus was broken. When we finally recieved some petroel, we stopped at a gas station and nearly everyone rushed off the bus to the two stalls at the cafe. We only had 10 minutes, and in my hurry I had forgotten my handy-dandy package of paper. So...get to the bathroom, and of course there is none. I reached into my pockets (in the dark mind you), looking for anything that is paperlike ***Note: I share this storY with you for a variety of reasons. The first is that apparently I have no shame, and the second is that these sort of things that happen when you are a traveler can be appreciated by all and understood by any others who have been in similar predicaments. The third is that if we are not close now, we will be after this!*** and finding something that fit the requirements, I did what any girl must do. Come to find out this morning, when I was digging through my pockets for my ticket to Saigon, that one shoud choose more carefully when looking for toilet paper subliments! SO, Jessica got delayed 2 hours, and Jessica got to pay 8 American dollars, because Jessica used her bus ticket as toilet paper. Well done.
Despite that disappointment, the day on the bus was quite pleasant. The weather was beautiful, and we spent the whole day along the coast. Sand dunes, blue water, palm trees...good conversation with witty Englishman that almost led to a detour in Mui Ne! But Sarah owes me big time, because I was a good girl and stayed on the bus in an effort to get to her (and I do mean big time!). So I have arrived in Ho Chi Minh city (bka Saigon), and will be crashing shortly. Tomorrow promises a tour around the city of various Vietnam/American war sites, and hopefully a chance to go out to the tunnels where Veitnamese soldiers spent years hiding underground. The closet history buff in me is loving this, and the travelers around me who are more interested in shopping and western food are finding me quite strange! Tomorrow evening Jessica & Graham will arrive in Saigon (because of the early seperation, they have been continually behind me one day), and Monday we will spend the day with some workers here in the city, looking at the way they are serving the Father here and helping out any way we can. Originally I was going to miss out on this part of the trip, but I am excited to get to see how these servants are MNSTRNG here! Tuesday morning Jessica & myself (and possibly Graham?) will take a tour up the Mekong Delta into Cambodia, and another stamp in the passport for me! PRYRS, please, that I do not have a repeat border crossing experience!

Thoughts on Veitnam:
*THE COFFEE - AMAZING. I can't descibe it, I can only say that its so strong it bites and at the same time its smooth and sweet. I have been drinking at least 3 cups a day and am not looking forward to leaving it behind...
*Have found surprising comfort in signs with letters in them again...even though I cannot read them, its a little like going home
*Had such severe culture shock when we arrived in Hanoi and was completely surrounded by white faces! Europeans, Canadaians, Australians, Americans everywhere! I couldn't even remember how to talk to them and have found myself inadvertently speaking with a mix of their accents each time I open my mouth. Have horrible fear that they believe I am a ridiculous American mocking them on purpose, but it cannot be helped.
*So far, Veitnam has the most beautiful countryside of any place I have ever been. We have seen mountians, jungles, coasts and deserts all in this small strip of land. The architecture is liken broken Mexico, but the vibrant colors are so refreshing compared to grey China. I have actually enjoyed the multiple, exponential hours on the bus, just staring out the window admiring his handiwork.
*Its easy to imagine this beautiful place teeming with soldiers and warfare. There are makeshift cemetaries everywhere and they are still rebuilding each day from the destruction of bombs 30 some years ago. I am anxious to learn more about this countries history, and at the same time preparing myself to face even more earth-shattering history in Cambodian. Its a little difficult to balanace these facts with the idea of a "vacation"
*All in all, I actually am looking forward to leaving this country for the next. I have made most of this journey alone, in which I discovered the joy of meeting new people, but also the frustration of enjoyment that fits my ideas of appropriate. I am ready to get to Sarah in Ho Chi Minh! Veitnam is also a popular vacation spot for Europeans, and its been a bit too touristy for my taste. I am ready to spend less money, fight fewer crowds, and enjoy more of a relaxed, adventerous trek. Next time I post, you will be hearing of Angkor Wat and Elephant treks!

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

THS (The Terminal) - "You No Go Vietnam!"

"You no go Vietnam!" These words will revirbirate through my mind with a giggle and a shudder for the rest of my life. These were the words spoken forcefully to me by the border guard at the South Chinese border crossing today...witness a day in the life of Tom Hanks...
Backstory:
Nanning is the largest city north of the Veitnamese border where foreigners can secure passports, other than that its only claim to fame is dog hotpot and the largest brass drum collection in the world. I have been in Nanning since Saturday evening, waiting for Monday morning to come so Jessica, Graham and I could go to the consulate. We got up bright and early Monday morning, found the consolute with our newly aquired Spanish grandmother Rosa, and applied for our visas. We were told we could pick them up that afternoon! Exciting, only one more day in China! So we bought bustickets to Hanoi, Vietnam for first thing Tuesday mornings. Visas check, bus tickets check, happy foreigners check check.
Main Plot:
We caught the bus this morning, delighted to be on our way with everything going so smoothly. The scenery to the border was beautiful and we were even given lotus & mixed bean congee (congealed soup that smells of stale communion bread) on the bus. We arrived at the border to a near empty crossing, and I approached the passport checker with happiness radiating from my heart, thinking of the land of warmth and magical coconut drinks on the other side, when I heard it..."You No Go Vietnam!"
Heart stop beating, rage clouding all judgement, highly-illegial border jumping scenerios crossing mind! Shenme??? What do you mean...no...go vietnam? Have visa! Have golden ticket! Ting Bu Dong!
Come to find out, the amazingly talented staff at the Vietnamese consulate have put the followin entry date on a number of passports yesterday, 20/02/2008, a computer glitch caught by some but not by the distributors of Jessica, Graham or my visa. Goodbye Veitnam, hello 8 hour wait at the Chinese border crossing.
Long explanation short:China can't let us out, Veitnam won't let us in. No phone calls or faxes from the Nanning consulate can fix. So Graham, being the chivalrous gentleman that he was, went all the way back to Nanning (3.5 hour bus ride) to have our visas corrected. There was hope that he could be back in time for the border closing so we could cross tonight, but the Veitnamese consulates idea of "full reimbursement and transportation back to the border" turned out to be 200 rmb and some maps. So Graham is stuck in Nanning for the night. A few games of Phase Diez (which turned out to be the awesome game I predicted) and border guard pengyoumen later, Jessica and I were escorted by Communist officials to the nearby town of Pinxiang for a night in what appears to be an abandonded brothel/haunted house. Highlights have been witnessing blackmarket Vietnamese visa transactions by our escorts (to which we said, "I thought we were friends!"), congee video diaries, and mystery vegetables. Needless to say, if Jessica and I make it through the night, we are out of here as soon as possible!
Alternate Endings:
According to Xiansheng Fan, we are to meet the bus "letter" at "hui" thirty in the morning to get back to the border. If all goes according to plan we will meet Graham at 11:30 (and shower him with appreciative hugs) and be in Veitnam by noon with annotated visas. My frostbitten toes and dirty hair will be grateful. If you see a post from me soon, you will know I outran Stanley Tucci...If you not, figure I am permenant limbo because Krakozhia is no more.
Sequel?

Saturday, January 12, 2008

Nanning

Update: Am in Nanning...its hot and boring...and they eat dog here...

Jessica & Graham will arrive tomorrow, until then I will be at Chao Fang Fandian, watching Chinese cartoons and reading my wares from the Foreign Language bookstore! Because the consulate is not open on Saturday or Sunday, the three of us will probably not get our visas for Veitnam until Tuesday or even Wednesday. Please lift up Sarah, as she is trying to work out a way to get down here to meet us. Travling in China is nothing short of evil during Spring Festival, and she is having difficulties figuring out how to get out of the country on a dollar she can afford!

On a side note just for Angelyn...its official. Wuchang is the 5th circle of hell! Words cannot do justice crawling through the construction, mudholes, and spring festival travelers in freezing sleet with a broken umbrella for 45 minutes. Was almost run over by a bus. Lets just say that January 11th will forever be remembered as the day I severly voilated the principles of jovial January and felt vindicated for every second that I didn't eat sugar. Totally worth it!

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Another Suitcase in Another Hall...

In the words of the great John Denver ;o)
All my bags are packed, I'm ready to go. I'm standing here outside your door, I hate to wake you up to say goodbye...

I am about to leave my apartment and begin a whirlwind 6 weeks of travel. I know I have already informed you all of this, but as I learned from a recent conversation with my distraught mother: perhaps there is a need for me to be more specific! So please pay special attention to the following announcements:

Fact: I will be traveling in China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Thailand
Fiction: I will be traveling in areas of civil unrest and untold dangers such as Myanmar or the Bermuda triangle

Fact: I will not be reachable by telephone
Fiction: I will have fallen off the proverbial edge of the planet, laying torn and bleeding in a gutter for the few short days of life I have left in my ragged body

Fact: I will be posting updates of my whereabout and safety on my blog
Fiction: I will be posting updates of my whereabout and safety on my blog every day...therefore if there are multiple days in a row that you do not hear from me you can be assured of my prolonged and painful demise

If there are any bases I left uncovered, please be sure to let me know so I can rush in with an array of assurances. ;o) I hope you will check my blog often, I will try to entertain you with our adventures as much as possible. Please lift me up to the Father, as well as the the millions of others who will be traveling in China at this time. We need strength and safety, and I need to courage to be a powerful witness at all times and dispel the darkness that will be all around me. Zai Jien!

Sunday, January 6, 2008

It's Gonna Be A Happy New Year...

*2007*
Ever the restless travelers...Brian, Angelyn and I welcomed in the new year with a 24 hour trip to Yichang. I was informed that a New Year's spent in China could not be experienced elsewhere. The foreigners there have developed a tradition, so the Shiyan crew and our Wuhan buddies traveled the 6 hours to watch an apple drop on a chopstick. The night was a whirlwind: it began with a video/photo scavenger hunt that included reenacting the Titanic, creating a western, or grabbing a photo with the infamous Da Shan. Check out the photos for a little view on how our team laid it down. We followed it by a dinner at Pizza Hut, then back to the school for some more delectable treats, judging of the contest, and general merriment. We celebrated the turn of midnight in style, but I will let the video tell the story. Finally, we closed out the night with a group singing that was so incredible. I hadn't heard good 4-part harmony in 5 months and it was quiet literally music to my ears.
Photo Album: Dick Clark's Rockin New Years Eve!
Video: The Ball Drop

*Alliteration Months*
Perhaps you have detected some illusion of these in my past posts, but Angelyn and I, in an endless quest for self-improvement, have been practicing a serious of months aimed at better our selves. Others have jumped on the bandwagon and we feel this movement could spread like wildfire, perhaps even lead to a best seller in our names. So it all began with No-Shave November, at disgusting tradition to say the least, but an excellent discipline in focusing more on inner beauty! Destination December featured a variety of weekend excursions to combat cultural shock; including Wuhan, Chengdu and finally Yichang. Jovial January has been the most challenging exercise, but one we feel is crucial to our mission. No negative remarks about a person may pass our lips. If bitterness comes out, sweetness is not allowed in so failure to compile results in a sugar fast! In the future, Focused/Festive February will require intense dedication to our Chinese studies, followed by the final week spent celebrating random holidays. But we are most excited about what awaits us in two months: Meager March. After running across some disturbing research on the Internet, Angelyn issued a challenge to discover what it is like to really live under the restraints of a Chinese citizen. According to her research, the Chinese welfare system believes that a city resident should be able to survive on 169 rmb a month, roughly the equivalent of $23 American dollars. Even by Chinese standards, this is a ridiculous expectation! But there are many who live accordingly, and we will try to do the same. This will be a challenge for us, we do not pay for things like hot water, heat, or other amenities supplied by our university. But we will be budgeting out blessings like the internet or television. If you are as shocked as we are by these figures, and intrigued by such an idea, we would welcome partners across the ocean in such an endeavor. More information on this alliteration month to come in the future!

*Travel Plans*
The glorious thing about China is the importance of celebration - its practically the 6ht precept of Buddhism. Their equivalent to Christmas is Spring Festival, the 40 day celebration of the lunar new year/excuse for an extensive vacation! The Chinese all leave the city, traveling to the country to visit their hometowns, while the foreigners head off to explore exotic locations. Our university's supply us with travel stipends, as well as a salary despite our absence from work, for this exact purpose. I will be leaving Shiyan on Thursday night and taking a three day journey to the Nanning in the southern point of China. The other foreigners I am traveling with (Jessica and Graham) will meet me there, and we will cross into Vietnam! The three of us will spend about 10 days explore Vietnam while we wait for Sarah, our fourth, to meet us in Ho Chi Minh (Saigon). Then we will spend 2 weeks in Cambodia and Laos, filling our days with boat trips, elephant treks, and swims in volcanic craters! For the last leg of the trip we will meet Angelyn in Thailand (yeah!) and finish out the trip on the famous Thai beaches. We will end the trip in Bangkok, participating on a CPM conference which we are all looking forwarded to getting excellent insight and fellowship from!
I wanted to give you the run down for 3 reasons:
#1 - I will definitely be out of reach for the majority of that trip. I will try to check into a hostel weekly that will allow me to post on my blog to let you know I am still alive ;o)
#2 - I don't want my grandmothers panicking and my mother alerting embassies when I am suddenly unreachable and they have difficulty recalling why in the midst of their hyperventilation
#3 - Perhaps to make you feel small jabs of jealousy...

Here's hoping you are all well in the states, and breaking your New Year's Resolutions with a fervor!

GWG ~ Jessica

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

What A Fine Chap You Are!

Over the last week I have been immersed in a book that has been
floating around the Western RLGS circuit for a number of years:
"Jesus Freak" (Not just a song by the greatest hiphop/rap/soul
CHRSTN band of all time featuring Kevin, Toby Mac & Michael T -
three men who held my heart for ransom through most of the 90's)
I picked the book up in a bored whim, attracted by the tattered pages
and the promise of an easy read post the mind-numbing confusion
that was Stein's "Three Lives". But I was instantly surprised and
challenged by the contents of this "JSS Freak" phenomenon's child.
The stories of those persecuted and murdered in this book took on a
whole new meaning to me when my mind put faces to the names of
these martyrs. The Chinese child killed for her mother's devotion was
Rose, the two Chinese girls who PRYD for their PSTR'S conscience
seconds before he betrayed and murdered them were Zoe and Halley,
and the boy who smuggled books across the Yangzte on his back
was David. I was blown away. There are people back home in
America who are constantly praising my efforts, talking about the
things I have given up to live here in China. Honestly, who am I?
What have I done? How does only having hot water for 3 hours a day
compare to watching your children die for their own small FTH?
Its true, we cannot all die for our FTH; we are called to different things
by the Father. What I do envy and what I can glean from these shining
examples, is the joy. There is joy in suffering, there is joy facing the
barrel of a gun, and there is joy in the discovery of a passionate SVR.
There is joy to be had and I love this story I included below. I hope it
will challenge you the way it challenged me: to remember the joy that
we have in our GD


"CHRSTNTY has become dramatic with us," wrote PSTR Richard Wurmbrand, a
leader of the underground CHRCH in Communist Romania. "When CHRSTNS in free
countries win a soul for CHRST, the new BLVR may become a member of a
quietly living church. But them those in captive nations win someone, we know
that he may have to go to prison and that his children may become orphans. The
joy of having brought someone to CHRST is always mixed with this feeling that
there is a price to be paid.

"When I was still living behind the Iron Curtain, I had met a Russian captain.
He loved GD, he longed after GD, but he had never seen a BBL. He had never
attended RLGS services. He had no RLGS education, but he loved GD
without the slightest knowledge of Him."

"I read to him the Sermon on the Mount and the parables of JSS. After hearing
them, he danced around the room in rapturous joy, proclaiming, 'what a
wonderful beauty! How could I live without knowing this CHRST?' It was the
first time that I saw someone jubilating in CHRST."

"Then I made a mistake. I read to him the passion and crucifixion of CHRST,
without having prepared him for this. He had not expected it. When he heard how
CHRST was beaten, how He was crucified, and that in the end He died, he fell
in an armchair and began to weep bitterly. He had believed in a SVR and now
his SVR was dead!"

"I looked at him and was ashamed that I had called myself a CHRSTN and a
PSTR, a teacher of others, I had never shared the sufferings of CHRST as
this Russian officer now shared them. Looking at him was, for me, like seeing
Mary Magdalene weeping at the foot of the cross or at the empty tomb."

"Then I read to him the story of the resurrection. When he heard this wonderful
news, that the SVR arose from the tomb, he slapped his knees, and shouted
joy: 'He is alive! He is alive!' Again he danced around the room, overwhelmed
with happiness!"

"I said to him, 'Let us PRY!'"

"He fell o his knees together with me. He did not know our HLY phrases. His
words of PRYR were, 'O GD, what a fine chap You are! If I were You and You
were me, I would never have forgiven You Your sins. But You are really a very
nice chap! I love You with all my heart'."

"I think that all the angels in heaven stopped what they were doing to listen
to this sublime PRYR from this Russian officer. When this man received
CHRST, he knew he would immediately lose his position as an officer, that
prison and perhaps death in jail would almost surely follow. He gladly paid the
price. He was ready to lose everything."